On a recent cruise ship day in downtown Ketchikan, a small-scale donut maker, equipped with frying oil and a conveyer belt, was dotted with dozens of goodies inside a food stand on Mill Street. Drew O’Kane, owner of Drewber’s Donuts, grabbed a handful of the mini confectionery favorites and loaded them with toppings.
It was one of many cake donut treats the new shop sold that day. They’re served in bags or bowls, and can be garnished with anything from peanut butter, to cookies, to salmon crumbles. The food stand opened for the first time in mid-June.
O’Kane has started numerous businesses in town, like Pop’s Kettle Corn, and has dreamed about opening another food stand for years. But he said up until recently, doing so was a slow process. Now, there’s around a dozen or so food trucks and stands in the First City.
O’Kane says that’s a good thing.
“The introduction of food trucks and that type of thing really opens up a whole new possibility for the people that are busy,” O’Kane said. “They’re there, they’ve got a tour to get to, or they have limited time in town. So, the food trucks, really, it’s good for Ketchikan.”
Although opening a food truck or stand on an island comes with its own set of challenges, like shipping, O’Kane said he’s seen more of them pop up in recent years. The state has issued over 100 business permits for mobile food vendors and snack and nonalcoholic beverage bars in Ketchikan over the last two decades.
And according to the U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics, employment in mobile food services has increased by over 900% since 2000. O’Kane says food trucks and stands provide alternatives to Ketchikan’s limited restaurant options.
“So, you can grab it, you can walk down the street to Creek Street, you don’t have to worry about sitting down,” O’Kane said. “I think with the whole food truck concept, it’s convenience and a better price range.”
Drewber’s Donuts isn’t the only new food stand in town. Past the Water Street tunnel along Berth 4 is a food stand park that just opened. Locals and cruise ship passengers can enjoy eats and drinks on the water from four mobile vendors.
One of them is Ketchicones, which also opened in June. As its name might suggest, the food stand sells a myriad of Alaska-made ice cream flavors, like fireweed and honey and Alaska wildberry. They also serve specialties, like ice cream nachos.
Co-owner Margaret Heath said business has been good so far. And it’s mostly been from locals.
“We all live here for a reason and love being here, but I think everyone could admit that there’s stuff you missed from the Lower 48, and this gives you an opportunity if you embrace it,” Heath said. “It gives us all an opportunity to try different things for the season, and I think that’s good. Variety is always a good thing.”
Heath acknowledges that some community members have mixed feelings about food trucks and stands. She said some feel they’re taking over the town. But she said others support them.
And Heath has wanted to open an ice cream shop in Ketchikan for a few years. She said doing so by way of a food stand is more affordable.
“I don’t know that my family could have been able to get into an actual building and put everything into creating a huge ice cream shop, but an ice cream truck is definitely manageable and affordable,” Health said. “And with the cruise ship tourists and the locals coming, it makes it worth it, and it makes us able to stay here.”
Back at Drewber’s Donuts on Mill Street, O’Kane was busy making a cookie lava fudge donut concoction. It was dressed to the nines with chocolate, icing and Oreos.
O’Kane said there aren’t many donut options in town, and he was excited to open Drewber’s. It’s been in the works since the fall.
He envisions keeping his shop open year round.
“You know, food is the universal language,” O’Kane said. “I think everybody’s got a sweet tooth, and every day we come down here, and we’ve just got big smiles on our faces, because you can’t not smile when you’re watching the smiles on all the people as you hand them out the window.”
Although his shop just opened, O’Kane is thinking about expanding to Ward Cove, seven miles north of town. Heath, with Ketchicones, is also considering an expansion north. Other downtown businesses have already done so after cruise ships began docking there a few years ago. But, they’ll have to get in while it’s hot because most are seasonal establishments that close at the end of the summer.
Hunter Morrison is a Report for America corps member for KRBD. Your donation to match our RFA grant helps keep him writing stories like this one. Please consider making a tax-deductible contribution.
